Okay, so it is a bit time consuming but very satisfying to make your own quince paste. If you can get hold of some fresh quinces (although it is a bit late this year) this pairs beautifully with cheese of any sort.

All you need is several quinces, water and sugar – and some time and patience.

Peel, core and chop the quinces, sprinkling the chunks with lemon juice as you go to limit the browning caused by oxidation. Put the core and peel into a muslin bag tied with string and add to a large pot with the quince chunks. Cover with water and simmer for about 30 minutes until tender. The core, seeds and peel will enhance the setting of the paste.

Strain the quince chunks, discarding the peel and core, and puree until smooth. Weigh the quince and add (at most) three-quarters of the weight of quince in sugar. Mix well in the pot and cook over very low heat, stirring often until the mixture is a deep red and comes away from the sides of the pot – at least 3 hours.

Cool slightly before pouring the puree into a shallow tin lined with baking paper. Once set, cut into pieces and store for many months in the fridge.