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Tonight: pop-up feast in Thirroul

2515 chats to two collaborators: the Blackbird’s Chris Henry and the Hummus Bar’s Conrad Denyer.

Thirroul is proving it’s a town with the co-operative heart of a village. Instead of competing to make a post-pandemic comeback, two business owners are joining forces to deliver something new. 

On Friday, April 9, Conrad Denyer’s Hummus Bar – a vegetarian market stall known for its delicious halloumi chips and falafels – will pop up at the Blackbird cafe on McCauley Street for a Mediterranean-style night out, complete with footpath dining, fresh food and BYO.

“It’s good to create a shared space,” says Chris Henry, owner of Blackbird Thirroul. “Being able to work together is good for each other – it brings fresh people into our place and it also gives these guys a space to work out of.

“We need more variety in Thirroul,” Conrad says. “I think people are ready for it.”

The night won’t just be about food – Art Space 2515 and other local shops may also be open.

“There are plans for a walking map,” Conrad says. “We’ll hopefully get some of the bars involved.

“I want to get a projector and screen old black and white movies on the roof opposite. No sound, just make it a multi-sensory experience.

“I want to have fun.”

2020 was a tough year for both businesses. 

The travelling Hummus Bar went into hibernation after the festivals that were its life-blood were cancelled, while the Blackbird was hit by the Covid lockdown and restrictions on numbers.

Chris, a chef who grew up in New Zealand and worked in hospitality in Sydney before starting his own cafe, said the Blackbird was just a few months old when the pandemic hit. 

“We’ve had to reinvent business more than a few times,” he says. “Family dinner packs, delivering to cars – we flipped pretty early, to be one step ahead, it really transformed business for us.”

But with no working holidaymakers coming into the country, it has been hard to find staff – both Chris and his wife have worked virtually non-stop. 

“It [hospitality] is not an industry that Aussie kids are picking up – it’s hard work and the hours aren’t great,” Chris says. “We’ve come out the other side okay, but we are looking at options to utilise the space more, bring a bit of variety to the area.”

Conrad has run the Hummus Bar since 2017. 

“I had worked on the stall and the food was incredible,” he says. “The veggie burgers were the best I’ve ever tasted, the falafels just resonated.

“We’ve had success with a mezze platter approach. Basically it’s a degustation on one plate and you get the whole lot – falafel, pickles, tabouli, hummus, baba ganoush, carrot and cumin dip. The side dish is halloumi chips, which has been enormously successful for us.

“I’m obsessed with pickles. I make all my own pickles, just finished some mango and chilli.

“In the Levantine tradition, we serve an iced tea with our food, with a bit of cider vinegar in it.”

One reason Conrad wanted to collaborate with Chris was the Blackbird’s great coffee and food. 

“I came in for breakfast one morning and I just went, ‘Yes, yes!’ It was reasonably simple, but it was just right. I love hanging around in cafes, for me that is unadulterated leisure time.

“Working with other people is a great opportunity,” Chris says. “I’m working six and a half days a week already and have a young family, so I didn’t want to commit to extra nights. 

“We’ve got a pretty strong regular local following – they’d appreciate something different.”

Conrad: “And you can have a night off!”

Chris: “Yes, I can be a guest – even better.”  

Hummus Bar @ Blackbird Cafe, 2 McCauley St, Thirroul, Friday, April 9. Two sittings (6-7.15pm & 7.30-8.45pm). BYO. Bookings via Facebook @Hummusbar, hummusbar.com.au or call 0458 853 086.

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